Monday, 4 September 2017

Whisk away Georgian Macaroons and Syllabub

Georgian Macaroons
This is the 4th Georgian baking recipe to mark 300 years following the birth of James Paine, architect of The Mansion House in Doncaster. Macaroons or Ratafia Drops were a popular form of sweet in 18th century households. They would be served with tea or a glass of ratafia. 
Here’s the recipe from The Cook and Housewife’s Manual: A practical System of Modern Domestic Cookery and Family Management by Mistress Margaret Dods

Macaroons or Ratafia Drops
Blanch and beat, with an ounce of fine sugar and a little water, four ounces of bitter, and two ounces of sweet almonds. Add to the paste a pound of sugar, the whites of two eggs, and a little noyeau. Beat the whole well, and when light drop the batter from a biscuit funnel on paper, of the size of pigeons’ eggs, and bake the drops on tins.

There is a reference to bitter and sweet almonds. Sweet almonds are frequently used in cooking. Bitter almonds should not be eaten raw as they contain a toxic chemical which is dangerous to humans and animals. It is quite safe to use Almond extract or Almond essence, other than for anyone who has a nut allergy. I’ve used ground almonds and almond extract to bring this recipe up to date.

Macaroons or Ratafia biscuits
2 medium egg whites
175g /¾ cup caster sugar
175g /¾ cup ground almonds
½ teaspoon of almond extract
A few drops of rosewater

Pre-heat the oven to 325F / 170C / 150C fan. Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. In a separate bowl mix together the ground almonds and sugar, then fold into the egg whites, together with the almond essence. The mixture needs to firm enough to roll into small balls (about the size of a walnut). If it’s too wet, add more ground almonds. Place the balls onto a baking parchment, and bake for about 20 minutes or until golden-brown. You can top with a sliver of almond. They should be crisp and crunchy on the outside, and soft and chewy in the middle.
To accompany the Macaroons, Hannah Glasse’s recipe for Syllabub from The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 1747 may prove interesting to make at home …first milk your cow!
Syllabub
To make a fine syllabub from the cow: Make your syllabub of either Cyder or Wine, sweeten it pretty sweet, and grate nutmeg in, then milk the Milk into the Liquor; when this is done, pour over the Top half a pint or pint of Cream, according to the Quantity of Syllabub you make.  You may make this syllabub at Home, only have new milk; make it as hot as milk from the Cow, and out of a tea pot or any such thing, pour it in, holding your Hand very high.
Here’s my updated version. It’s one of the easiest desserts to serve.

Syllabub
½ pint/10fl oz/300ml double cream
finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
¼ pint/5fl oz/150ml white wine or a mixture of sherry and white wine
2 oz. caster sugar
Slices of lemon peel

Place all the ingredients into a mixing bowl.  Whisk until light but not too thick.  Place the mixture into small glasses and refrigerate until required. Decorate with slices of lemon peel before serving.
The visitors lapped it all up at the Georgian celebrations at Cusworth Hall in Doncaster!

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